Itb 91 vw golf

rbrund · #1 08-04-2012, 08:40 PM

Looking to sell an itb golf. Motor was too high compression. Comes with spare body parts, rear ends and other parts. Has a quaife differential if i got name right. Send pm for pictures. Car located in MA.

Car is Sold

rbrund · #2 08-11-2012, 05:55 PM

Ill try to get more pictures this week, wanted 3k but from discussions with people a car that's not race ready might not be worth that, so if i can get 2k id be happy but im willing to listen to offers

Ralf · #3 08-11-2012, 06:28 PM

How high is the compression and why?

rbrund · #4 08-11-2012, 08:04 PM

12 to 1 i was told, and I think thats how the motor was done. Was told motor legal when bought. Kinda disappointed. Might see how much it is to fix it all.

S2_ITBVW · #5 08-11-2012, 08:41 PM

Kudos to your making the car legal. It might not be that difficult to do. If your head is not cut down too much you may just need to put stock pistons back in it.

If they were cheating with the compression they may have an illegal cam in the car too. But, again, this is not difficult or expensive to change.

Regardless, we're talking about "hundreds" of dollars to make it legal, then you can continue to develop the car over time to make it fast.

If you need help send me an email and I will do what I can to help.

Dave

gran racing · #6 08-12-2012, 07:52 AM

Wouldn't a thicker head gasket resolve the issue?

rbrund · #7 08-12-2012, 08:16 AM

I will have to talk to shine racing services. He had suggested another motor

Flyinglizard · #8 08-12-2012, 11:22 AM

You can look into the plug holes and see if the pistons have a dish. If they are dished, you can get back to almost/maybe legal by using a head that is over the 133mm size. Stock head is about 135.
FWIW most of the cheater cars are cheated well through, Steel shifter rods, cut flywheel, wrong cam. trans gears. it goes on.
I would just run the car in HP and have fun with it. it may be pretty close to the front as is. My VW IT cars are all running HP now ..
MM

rbrund · #9 08-12-2012, 12:37 PM

Motor I was told was over 12 to 1.

rbrund · #10 08-12-2012, 06:43 PM

Im willing to take 1500-2000 on this car. I have a ton of spare parts for it doors hoods trunk lids rear end a arms ecus.

gran racing · #11 08-13-2012, 08:01 AM

What is the legal compression in that motor? How / who checked it? Did you buy it from Thor? If so, I'm kinda surprised with this.

rbrund · #12 08-13-2012, 08:12 AM

Legal i believe is 10 to 1. Shine Racing Service tested compression on motor. I dont think Thor would try to sell a illegal car he seemed like a very nice honest man. Just seems like motor was just done too big

Gary L · #13 08-13-2012, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gran racing

Wouldn't a thicker head gasket resolve the issue?

Well, no... at least not if you abide by the rules:

9.1.3.D.1.o. - "Cylinder head gasket(s) may be replaced with any gasket(s) having the same compressed thickness as stock."

Flyinglizard · #14 08-13-2012, 12:49 PM

12/1 is legal for HP. If it has dished pistons, you can get that . The Mk 3 head gasket is 066 crushed. The OE gaskte is about 060
Felpro is near 055 @ 70# torque.

Just sell it as a HP car or better yet run.it.
I'll give you 1200$ for it any time.

Ralf · #15 08-13-2012, 10:08 PM

From the HP spec line:

Volkswagen
Golf (GTI, GT,

GL)

Comp. Ratio limited to 11.5:1, Valve lift limited to .425”. Can use stock fuel tank if stock rear

bumper and bumper support structure is retained.

Flyinglizard · #16 08-13-2012, 10:25 PM

Stack two Mk3 gaskets then.

Ron Earp · #17 08-14-2012, 06:50 AM

If you're just starting out racing run the car as is and don't take any points. Let your ITB competitors know about the situation.

Or better yet, fix it and run it legally The fix could be a new old head and gasket - a couple hundred bucks and sweat. It could cost more. But right now you don't know what you have as the motor hasn't been opened. The compression estimate you have from whomever told you it was 12:1 is just an estimate, and, it might be wrong.

Until you dive into it you're not going to know about the car you've got.

I can assure you this though - the car you have right now is going to get you racing cheaper and quicker than any car you choose to build.

Joe Camilleri · #18 08-14-2012, 08:51 PM

I agree with the comments above. You won't really know the CR until you take the head off and measure the pistons and head. If you need to take out some compression to run in HP, these guys can make you a custom gasket to any thickness. http://www.headgasket.com/gaskets.html or http://www.cometic.com/

With engine measurements you can calculate CR here. http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

Thor S. · #19 08-15-2012, 09:40 AM

I haven’t been on here for a while and I was told about this thread. When the car was shown, I was asked about the engine. My reply was the rulebook was given to the engine builder and my instructions were for him to build a legal engine. I did not build the engine myself so I don’t 100 % know. The price that was paid was about 40 % of what was in the car alone as a roller with a transmission with spares. It was also mentioned that he was getting a deal for what he paid.

The first engine that was in the car was built by a well know name, I spent big dollars on it. That engine was weaker than a junk yard engine and only lasted a couple of races before it blew up in a big way.

The engine in question was built by someone who also builds circle track engines, the money that was invested in that engine was more than what the car was sold for.

Greg Amy · #20 08-15-2012, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbrund

12 to 1 i was told, and I think thats how the motor was done. Was told motor legal when bought.

Care to expand on that? Told by whom, Dick Shine? You said Shine "tested the compression", but by what method? Does Dick have access to a Whistler? Did he just do a compression test? Did he pull the head and measure the compression ratio? Sounds like Dick is inferring compression RATIO from a simple compression test, and that's WRONG. He is well aware that this is just inferential and that there is NO WAY to properly determine compression ratio from a compression test; they are two totally different tools.

Before you go any further, I recommend pulling the head - it's damned easy to do - and actually cc'ing the engine, using the correct techniques to accurately determine compression RATIO. Unfortunately, I no longer have access to the Division's Whistler (I gave it back to the Divisional Scrutineer at Pocono)...

Alternatively, if the engine is exactly as you bought it from Thor, maybe the last engine builder did a cc check and still has those numbers? I suppose it's possible that the builder put the incorrect pistons in the engine, but he should have that part number info as well.

But anything else besides removing the head and cc'ing the engine just guessing.

GA